Leather Dictionary

The Complete Guide to Leather Terms

Welcome to the COLOURLOCK Leather Dictionary – your comprehensive reference for all things leather. Whether you’re a professional upholsterer, automotive detailer, furniture restorer, or simply a leather enthusiast, this glossary will help you understand the language of leather care, repair, and restoration. We focus on leather types, common damage terms, and the care systems and professional products used to address them.
This guide is written in clear, accessible language so even a newcomer can follow along. Short definitions and care tips are provided for each term, helping demystify leather jargon and linking it to practical care advice.
Use this dictionary to navigate leather articles, tutorials, and product guides with confidence.

A

Aniline Leather: A premium, natural leather dyed with soluble aniline dyes so the surface remains transparent. The natural grain, pores, and markings are visible, giving it a luxurious, soft feel.

Care Tip: Use COLOURLOCK Aniline Cleaner and Aniline Cream to gently clean and nourish aniline leather without darkening its surface.

Aniline Cream: A translucent conditioner used to nourish aniline leathers without covering the grain. Often used on high-end furniture and fashion leathers to maintain softness without altering the appearance.

Aging (Patina): The gradual change in a leather’s appearance due to use, light exposure, and natural oils. Over time, some leathers (such as pull-up and aniline) develop a desirable patina, which is a rich sheen or character that adds to their beauty.

Abrasive Wear: Surface damage caused by rubbing, friction, or repeated contact (for example, seat bolsters wearing from getting in and out). This often shows up as dull, rough patches. Treatment: Protect high-wear areas with COLOURLOCK Leather Shield to reduce friction, and restore light scuffs using Leather Fresh dye.

Alcantara: The brand name of a suede-like synthetic textile made of about 68% polyester and 32% polyurethane. It has a soft, velvety feel similar to suede, but is more durable and moisture-resistant. Alcantara is commonly used in luxury car interiors and furniture as a vegan alternative to suede.

Care Tip: Clean and protect it with COLOURLOCK Alcantara & Textile Cleaner to avoid damaging the delicate microfiber structure.

B

Bonded Leather: A composite material made from shredded leather fibres bonded together with adhesives and coated with polyurethane. It looks like leather initially but is less durable and prone to peeling or cracking.

Breathability: A leather’s ability to allow air and moisture to pass through its surface. Natural, unfinished leathers like aniline and nubuck are highly breathable, while pigmented or heavily coated leathers have lower permeability due to their protective top coatings. Good breathability contributes to comfort (for example, less heat and sweat build-up on car seats).

Buffalo Leather: Leather made from the hide of buffalo (such as water buffalo or bison). It is typically thicker, stronger, and has a more pronounced, coarse grain pattern compared to cowhide. Buffalo leather is extremely durable and elastic, and it develops a rich patina over time with use. It’s often used in furniture, bags, and even some automotive upholstery (e.g. some BMW models have used buffalo leather).

Care Tip: Because buffalo leather is often processed as aniline or semi-aniline, keep it conditioned with COLOURLOCK Aniline Protector or Leather Protector to maintain its suppleness and enhance the patina.

Buffing: A mechanical process that smooths or alters the leather’s surface by rubbing it with an abrasive. Buffing is used to create a soft, velvety finish on nubuck (by sanding the top grain) or to remove imperfections before refinishing leather. In restoration, lightly buffing the leather (using a sanding pad) can matte down rough areas or remove loose finish prior to recolouring. Always buff gently to avoid removing too much of the grain.

Buffing Pad (Leather Sanding Pad): A fine abrasive pad or sanding pad used to smooth rough areas of leather and prep the surface for repair or recolouring. For example, the COLOURLOCK Leather Sanding Pad is ideal for leveling scratches or scuffs before applying Leather Fresh or filler. It’s also used to clean suede/nubuck (by removing nap clumps) and to lightly sand pigmented leather during professional colouring.

Usage: Always use light pressure to avoid creating deep scratches. Cleaning or replacing the pad periodically ensures effective buffing.

C

Clean & Care Kit: A COLOURLOCK two-step kit containing a Leather Cleaner (Mild or Strong) and a Leather Conditioner/Protector or Leather Shield. It is designed for regular maintenance – first safely cleaning the leather, then nourishing and protecting it. Using a Clean & Care Kit as part of your routine helps keep leather soft, prevent cracking, and protect the finish from wear. (For example, the COLOURLOCK Mild Cleaner & Leather Milk Protector for older leathers and Mild Cleaner & Leather Shield for newer leathers make an excellent combo for automotive leather care.)

Coated Leather: Leather finished with a corrected surface layer of grain with a polyurethane coating for extra protection. Most automotive and furniture leathers are coated – the pigmented paint and clear topcoat seal the leather, making it more uniform in colour and more resistant to stains and UV damage. Coated leather is durable and easier to clean, but less breathable than uncoated leathers.

Collagen: The natural protein fibre structure that makes up the hide and gives leather its strength. In leather, collagen fibres are stabilised during tanning. Proper conditioning is critical to keep these fibres flexible – if collagen dries out (lack of oils and moisture), the leather can become brittle and crack. Most leather conditioners work by replenishing oils to the collagen network, helping maintain the leather’s integrity.

Colour Matching: The process of reproducing an exact leather colour when doing repairs or touch-ups. COLOURLOCK professionals use a spectrophotometer and colour lab to formulate custom dyes that match the original sample, ensuring an OEM-accurate result. For DIY, COLOURLOCK Leather Fresh dyes are available in many factory colours, and can also be mixed to fine-tune a shade due to aging and patina. Good colour matching is key for invisible repairs or when re-dyeing panels to blend with the rest.

Colour Transfer: Unwanted dye migration from other materials onto the leather’s surface. A common example is dark denim bleeding blue dye onto a light-coloured car seat or leather sofa. Freshly dyed garments, belts, magazines, or even printed packaging can cause dye transfer — particularly on pale or unfinished leather.

Prevention: Apply COLOURLOCK Leather Shield regularly to high-contact areas such as car seat bolsters, armrests, handbags, and cushions.

Leather Shield forms an invisible, sacrificial layer that absorbs friction and dye particles before they reach your leather’s finish. This protective barrier is designed to be easily removed with COLOURLOCK Mild Cleaner, allowing you to clean away superficial dye transfer and reapply the Shield.

We recommend reapplying every 3 months in high-use areas, or more frequently where dye transfer is likely (e.g. light leather with frequent dark clothing contact or when a light ‘shadow’ appears).

Why Early Action Matters: Dye transfer that sits untreated may begin to seep down through the surface layer of the leather. Once the dye penetrates past the Shield and reaches the topcoat or pigment layer, it becomes extremely difficult to remove without damaging the finish.

At that stage, surface cleaning may no longer be effective. The only solution is to reapply pigment using COLOURLOCK Leather Fresh (DIY) or COLOURLOCK Leather Colour (Professional), followed by a new topcoat — essentially restoring the finish from the ground up.

Fix: If the transfer is recent and surface-level:

·       Use COLOURLOCK Strong Leather Cleaner for sealed leathers.

·       For persistent stains, COLOURLOCK Top Remover may help lift dye from the coating.

·       Follow with Leather Shield to rebuild the protective barrier.

If the stain remains after cleaning or the colour appears distorted, a light recolour with Leather Fresh in the correct shade may be necessary.

Cracking: Structural damage in leather characterised by breakage of the fibres or finish, appearing as fine lines or deeper splits. Cracks are usually caused by a combination of factors: dryness (lack of conditioning), UV exposure, age, or using harsh cleaners that strip oils.

Repair: Superficial finish cracks can be concealed with a combinations of COLOURLOCK Leather Fresh (which has binder and topcoat to seal minor cracks). For deeper cracks or where the leather itself is split, use COLOURLOCK Fluid Leather (a flexible filler) or Leather Filler paste to fill the crack, then recolour with pigment. Always follow up with a protective topcoat or conditioner to prevent re-cracking.

Chrome-Tanned Leather: Leather tanned using chromium salts (typically chromium(III) sulfate). Chrome tanning is the most common tanning method today – it’s much faster than traditional vegetable tanning and produces a soft, flexible leather. In fact, around 85-90% of the world’s leather is chrome-tanned. Hides are soaked in a chemical bath and turn pale blue (called “wet blue”) during the process. Chrome-tanned leather is supple, has high heat and water resistance, and accepts a wide range of dye colours.

Note: Because of the chemicals used, it’s less eco-friendly than vegetable tanning, but it yields very durable leather for car upholstery, garments, and furniture.

Crosslinker: A special additive used in COLOURLOCK’s professional refinishing system to improve the durability of leather coatings. The crosslinker is mixed into the Top Coat and/or Leather Colour before spraying. It chemically bonds the finish layers together, ensuring the new colour and topcoat “cross-link” and adhere strongly to the leather. This prevents the colour from rubbing off and enhances resistance to wear.

Usage: Only a small percentage (2–5%) of Crosslinker IC2 is added to the finish. It makes the surface more robust without changing the appearance. (This is a pro-level step for high-wear items like car seats, steering wheels, or hard plastic parts in interiors.)

D

Degreaser: A specialist cleaner used to remove heavy soiling like body oils, grease, sweat, or waxy residues from leather. Before recolouring or repairing leather, a degreaser is applied to ensure the surface is clean & dry – free of contaminants. This step is essential because oils or silicones on the leather can prevent new colour or filler from adhering properly.

Delamination: When the painted finish or topcoat layer peels away from the leather underneath. It appears as flaking or peeling patches on the surface. Delamination is usually caused by a manufacturing defect or improper cleaning (such as using alcohol or solvent, or excessive heat) that breaks the bond of the finish. Once the protective layer delaminates, the exposed leather underneath is vulnerable.

Fix: Sanding off the loose flakes, then refinishing the leather with a new dye and topcoat is the only way to restore a delaminated area. Prevent it by using gentle cleaners and avoiding harsh chemicals on coated leather.

Drum-Dyeing: A dyeing process in which hides are immersed in large rotating drums with dye solutions. As the drums turn, dyes penetrate deeply and evenly into the leather. Drum-dyeing colours the leather through-and-through (not just on the surface), which is typical for aniline leathers. This results in rich colour that won’t wear off quickly, and the process also softens the leather by mechanical action. Most high-quality leathers are drum-dyed to achieve uniform colouration before any surface finishing.

Dye: In leather care, dyes are specialised colouring agents that either penetrate into or bond with the leather surface. Unlike standard paints, leather dyes are designed to preserve the natural grain and flexibility of the material, ensuring a soft finish that won’t crack or peel over time.

COLOURLOCK offers two primary dye systems, each tailored for a specific level of use and repair scope:

Leather Fresh: A DIY-friendly recolouring fluid that combines pigment, binder, and clear topcoat into a single formula.

·       Applied with a sponge — no spray gun required

·       Ideal for refreshing small areas like seat bolsters, handles, or scuffed panels

·       Ready-to-use formulation — no mixing or layering needed

·       Available in many factory-matched colours and custom blends

·       Perfect for personal use, quick touch-ups, and beginner-friendly repairs

Leather Colour: A professional-grade pigment system used for full refinishing or more advanced leather restoration.

·       Requires application via spray gun or airbrush

·       Topcoat must be applied separately (Matt, Satin, or Gloss options available)

·       Compatible with Crosslinker to improve abrasion and chemical resistance

·       Allows for advanced layering, colour mixing, and finish control

·       Recommended for recolouring entire seats, interiors, or multi-panel jobs

·       Best suited for detailers, upholsterers, and experienced restorers

Embossing: A mechanical process that imprints a texture or pattern onto leather using heat and pressure. Embossing is used to create uniform grain on corrected leathers or to imitate exotic patterns (like alligator or ostrich) on cheaper leather. For example, corrected grain leather often has an artificial grain embossed after sanding. Embossing can also apply logos or designs. The result is a raised or indented pattern on the leather surface.

Note: Deep embossing may wear down over time on high-use areas as the pattern’s high points get rubbed.

Ecosystem (Colourlock Ecosystem): At COLOURLOCK, this refers to our integrated range of cleaners, protectors, fillers, dyes, and tools – a complete system engineered to work together for all types of leather care and repair. The Colourlock Ecosystem means that every product, from cleaners to dyes to finishes, is compatible and factory-approved. By using the system (e.g., cleaning, then repairing, then protecting with Colourlock products), even DIY users can achieve professional-grade results without damaging their leather.

Elephant Leather Preserver: A museum-grade COLOURLOCK leather care product – a purely synthetic, acid-free leather wax used to deeply condition and protect leather. It is an ideal treatment for antique leathers and shiny, waxed leathers like Chesterfield sofas or classic car interiors. The product gets its name from its strong protective qualities (not from any relation to elephants).

Use: After cleaning, a light application of Elephant Leather Preserver will nourish dry leather, revive its sheen, and add a layer of protection against moisture. It’s especially prized for restoring older leather that has lost oils over decades.

F

Fatliquoring: A stage in the leather tanning process where oils and fats are added back into the leather after initial tanning. This step lubricates the fibres and keeps the leather soft and flexible. During fatliquoring, the oils penetrate the leather and bond to the fibres, preventing them from becoming stiff when the leather dries. The type and amount of fatliquors used can affect the feel – for instance, a heavier fatliquor might result in a more supple leather. Proper fatliquoring during manufacture is one reason vintage leathers can remain supple for many years.

Finish: The final protective layer or surface treatment applied to leather during manufacturing. “Finish” can refer broadly to the combined effect of any pigments, dyes, and topcoats on the leather. The finish determines the gloss (matte vs shiny), colour uniformity, and resistance to wear and staining. For example, a pigmented automotive leather has a coloured basecoat and a clear finish on top. Some finishes include special effects like metallic sheens or two-tone antique effects.

Care: Always tailor your cleaning and care to the type of finish – e.g., matte finishes might water-spot if over-saturated, so use a damp cloth rather than soaking.

Full-Grain Leather: The highest quality leather cut – it retains the entire natural grain from the top of the hide, with all its character. Full-grain leather has not been sanded or corrected on the surface, so it shows natural markings like pores, scars, or wrinkles of the animal hide. This type of leather is prized for its strength, durability, and how it develops patina. It’s used in luxury upholstery, high-end furniture, and premium car interiors. Because the grain is intact, full-grain leather breathes well and often feels warmer and more supple than corrected leathers.

Care Tip: Regularly condition full-grain leather to keep the fibres nourished – it can literally last decades and look better with age.

Fluid Leather: A COLOURLOCK flexible leather filler used to repair small cracks, scratches, or minor tears. This product (also called Liquid Leather) comes in various colours and has a thin toothpaste-like consistency. When applied, Fluid Leather bonds with the surrounding material and dries to a soft yet durable finish that moves with the leather. It’s great for fixing surface damage up to the size of a fingernail or small coin. After it dries, you usually apply Leather Fresh dye on top to blend the repair invisibly.

Example: If a car seat has a cracked bolster with minor fragmentation, you can fill the lines with Fluid Leather, let it cure, then sponge on Leather Fresh dye – the bolster will look almost new.

G

Grain: The natural texture/pattern on the surface of leather, created by the pores and hair follicles of the animal hide. Natural grain leather means the surface has not been altered (full-grain leather shows the original grain). The term “grain” can also distinguish the layers of a hide: the top grain is the outermost layer with the grain, while a split is below. Different leathers have distinct grain patterns – e.g., cowhide typically has a tight, even grain, while buffalo leather has a bolder, coarse grain. Some leathers are corrected grain, where the natural grain is sanded off and an artificial grain pattern is embossed.

Note: The grain affects not just appearance but also the leather’s breathability and how it takes up dyes or finishes.

Gloss Level: The degree of shine on a leather’s surface finish, ranging from matte (low gloss) to high gloss. Gloss level is a design choice and is controlled by the topcoat and any additives. For example, modern car leathers often have a matte finish for a natural look, while a patent leather purse has an extremely high gloss finish. COLOURLOCK offers different Top Coat options (Matte, Gloss, or a mix) and gloss adjusters to match the sheen during repairs. When touching up leather, it’s important to use the correct gloss topcoat so the repaired section doesn’t stand out.

Tip: If a leather area becomes shiny with use (like shiny patches on a steering wheel), a mild cleaner followed by Leather Shield can help restore a uniform matte look and reduce further gloss build-up from friction.

H

Hydration: In leather care, hydration refers to maintaining the moisture/oil balance within leather fibres to prevent dryness and cracking. This is done by periodic conditioning. Leather doesn’t like being either too wet or too dry – hydrating with a proper leather conditioner (like COLOURLOCK Leather Protector or Aniline Cream for absorbent leathers) keeps it supple. This replenishes natural oils and lubricants that evaporate or wear away over time. Think of it as “moisturising” the leather.

Sign of dehydration: leather that feels papery, has cracks, or creaks when bent. Regular hydration prevents these issues and prolongs the life of the leather.

Handfeel: The tactile sensation or feel of leather when you touch it – terms like buttery, smooth, waxy, silky, or firm describe handfeel. It’s a subjective but important quality, especially in high-end leathers. For instance, Nappa leather is valued for a very soft handfeel, whereas a bridle leather belt has a firm hand. Handfeel is influenced by factors like tanning method, finish, and any conditioners/waxes used on the surface. While it’s not a “care” aspect, understanding handfeel can tell you about a leather: a sticky or plasticky handfeel might mean a heavy artificial coating, whereas a warm, supple feel indicates a more natural finish.

Tip: If your leather’s handfeel has become dry or rough, it’s a cue that conditioning is needed.

I

Ink Stain: One of the most common accidental leather stains, often from pens leaking or a child drawing on a sofa. Ink is a dye that can penetrate leather finish, making it tricky to remove. For pigmented (coated) leather, COLOURLOCK offers an Ink Remover Pen that can often dissolve recent ballpoint ink marks. However, do not use this on porous leathers like aniline or nubuck – it will spread the ink. For old or stubborn ink stains on pigment-coated leather, more aggressive methods like light sanding and re-dyeing with Leather Fresh might be needed.

Prevention: Keep pens capped and avoid leaving newspapers on light leather. Treating leather with Leather Shield can also give you more time to blot off ink before it sets.

In-Plant Colouring: A term referring to the original dyeing and finishing processes that leather undergoes at the tannery or factory before it becomes a finished product. Automotive and furniture leathers, for example, are dyed and finished under controlled conditions (sprayed with pigment, topcoated, etc.) in the manufacturing plant. COLOURLOCK Leather Fresh and other repair products are based on the same principles of in-plant colouring – they use similar pigments, binders, and topcoat to replicate a factory finish on a smaller scale. Understanding in-plant colouring helps professionals choose the right method to mimic the original look during restoration (e.g. using a spray gun and crosslinker for a professional refinishing to OEM standards).

L

Leather: A natural material made from animal hide that has been chemically tanned to prevent decay and make it durable. The most common source is cowhide, but leather also comes from goats, sheep, pigs, buffalo, exotic animals, etc. After tanning (which stabilises the collagen fibers), the hide is typically dyed and finished for use. Leather uniquely combines strength with flexibility and breathability, which is why it’s used in everything from car seats to jackets.

Note: Because leather is skin, it benefits from regular cleaning and “moisturising” (conditioning) just like our own skin would.

Leather Fresh: A COLOURLOCK water-based leather recolouring system that combines dye, binder, and topcoat in one formula. It comes in a bottle and is applied with a sponge. Leather Fresh is used to restore faded colour, cover light wear, or even change the shade of leather on high-use areas. It’s ideal for fixing surface scratches or slight cracking on car seats, sofas, or handbags. The advantage is that it’s user-friendly and, once dried and set, it is as if you applied a new finish similar to the original factory coating.

Tip: Always clean and prep the leather (with COLOURLOCK Cleaner and if needed, a mild sanding) before applying Leather Fresh. Seal it with Leather Protector or Shield for longevity.

Leather Filler: A repair compound (thicker paste) used to fill deeper cracks, gouges, or holes in leather. COLOURLOCK Leather Filler dries to a flexible, matte finish and has strong adhesive properties. It is perfect for fixing areas where the leather’s surface is missing or very rough – for example, cat scratches that removed the grain, or a puncture in a car seat. To use, you smooth the filler into the damaged area with a palette knife, let it dry completely, then sand lightly and recolour over it with Leather Fresh dye to hide the repair.

Note: Leather Filler is recommended only when a filler is necessary – minor surface wear is better fixed with Fluid Leather or just dye. Always finish a filler repair with proper colouration and protection for a lasting result.

Leather Shield: A COLOURLOCK leather surface protector that creates an invisible barrier against friction damage and colour transfer. It’s a liquid you apply after cleaning (especially on new or recently recoloured leather). Leather Shield reduces wear on high-contact areas like car seat edges, steering wheels, or sofa cushions by making the surface a bit more slick and resistant to abrasion. It also helps prevent dye from clothes (like denim or fresh prints) from penetrating the leather. Use Leather Shield every 3 months or when ‘shadows’ appear on frequently used leather to keep it looking new – this prevent any further damage reaching your top coat. (It does not make the leather shiny or sticky – once dry you won’t notice it’s there.)

Leather Protector: A nourishing conditioner that replenishes oils and antioxidants to leather, keeping it soft and preventing premature aging. Unlike Leather Shield (which is more of a barrier), Leather Protector – also known as Leather Milk or Leather Lotion in some lines – is absorbed into the leather’s surface. It often contains UV filters and antioxidants. Use it after cleaning to restore moisture to the leather, which helps prevent dryness, cracks, and fading. For example, COLOURLOCK Leather Protector is recommended every 3–6 months on leather furniture or car seats to maintain that factory suppleness. It’s especially important for leathers that don’t have heavy coatings – conditioning them keeps the hide flexible.

Leather Softener: A special treatment for restoring extremely dry, stiff, or shrunken leather. COLOURLOCK Leather Softener is used in cases like vintage car seats, antique leather suitcases, or any leather that has become very hard over time. The Softener is a penetrating oil solution – you apply it liberally and let it soak in (sometimes for days, wrapping the leather in plastic to keep it from evaporating). It slowly relaxes the leather fibres and adds back lubrication, making the item flexible again.

Note: Softener is usually a last resort for very old leather – it can darken the leather slightly. After softening, the leather often needs cleaning and refinishing, because the process can bring oils and impurities to the surface. But it can rescue leather that would otherwise crack when bent.

M

Microfibre Leather: A synthetic leather alternative made from very fine microfibres (often polyester or nylon) that are bundled and coated with polyurethane. Microfibre leather is designed to mimic real leather’s structure by having a fibrous base. It’s durable, lightweight, and often used in car interiors and furniture as “vegan leather.” The care for microfibre leather is different – it doesn’t absorb conditioners like real leather, so you usually just clean it with mild cleaners and protect the surface. One example is Alcantara, which is a type of microfibre suede (used in luxury cars). While microfibre materials resist cracking and fading well, they can wear down or pill over time. Always use products specifically labelled for artificial leather on these materials.

Matte Finish: A low-gloss, flat sheen on a leather surface. Many modern automotive leathers and furniture pieces opt for a matte finish for a more natural look (no shine). Maintaining a matt finish means avoiding polishes or conditioners that add gloss. COLOURLOCK offers Matte Top Coat for repairs to ensure the repaired section matches the original sheen. If a matte leather starts turning glossy in spots (from body oils or friction), you can carefully clean it – often the “shine” is dirt or oil that needs removal. Restoring a uniform matte appearance might involve using a mild leather cleaner and occasionally a specialised product like COLOURLOCK Top Remover (if re-topcoating). Matte finishes tend to feel dry and not slippery.

Maintenance Routine: A regular leather care schedule to keep your leather in top condition. COLOURLOCK recommends a simple routine:

·       Clean high-use leather (steering wheels, couch seats, handbags) every month or two with a Mild Leather Cleaner to remove dirt and oils.

·       Protect the leather – for pigmented leather, apply Leather Shield; for artificial/vegan leather, apply Artifical Leather Protector to guard against wear.

·       Nourish pigmented leather with Leather Protector (Milk); uncoated leathers, apply Aniline Cream or Elephant Preserver to hydrate and condition to prevent drying.

Keep leather away from direct heat sources and condition it more frequently in dry environments. This routine of periodic cleaning and protection will significantly extend the life and appearance of your leather. It’s much easier to maintain leather than to restore it after years of neglect – a little effort regularly will prevent most problems like cracking or heavy soiling.

N

Nappa Leather: Originally, a term for a soft, full-grain leather tanned with chromium salts (named after Napa Valley, California where the concept originated). In modern use, “nappa” just implies the leather is particularly soft and smooth, often used in high-end car interiors and designer handbags. Nappa leathers are usually chrome-tanned and lightly pigmented or semi-aniline – this keeps them very supple to the touch. They are full-grain or top-grain and free of heavy correction, so they retain a natural look.

Care: Clean nappa leather gently with a Mild Cleaner and protect it with a conditioner (or Leather Shield if it’s in a car) because while soft, it can be prone to wear on seams and high-contact areas.

Nubuck: A top-grain leather that has been lightly sanded or buffed on the grain side to create a velvety, nap texture. Nubuck feels like suede’s silky cousin – but unlike suede (which is the flesh side of the hide), nubuck is made from the grain side, so it’s typically stronger. It is highly absorbent and can be easily stained because it has no protective coating.

Care: Use COLOURLOCK Nubuck Cleaner to gently remove dirt (often as a foam applied with a soft brush), and Nubuck Protector Spray to guard against stains and UV fading. Avoid saturating nubuck with water; instead, use specialised nubuck cleaning cloths or blocks for spot cleaning. Over time, nubuck will develop shiny areas where it’s rubbed – you can restore the uniform look by lightly sanding with a nubuck sanding pad or using a nubuck eraser to lift the nap.

O

OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer): Refers to the factory standard used by vehicle or furniture manufacturers. In leather terms, “OEM” often describes the original colour, finish, and specifications of the leather in a car or product. COLOURLOCK products are OEM and repair systems are developed to OEM standards – for example, their BMW leather dyes match OEM colours, and the finished repair durability is akin to factory leather. If something is labelled “OEM-Approved,” it means it’s trusted by the original manufacturers. For a restorer, aiming for an OEM finish means using correct grain patterns, colour matches, and finish levels so the repair is indistinguishable from new.

Oxidation: The effect of oxygen and environmental exposure on leather over time. Oxidation can cause leather (especially aniline or unfinished leather) to darken, change colour, or become stiff. For instance, a light leather left in the sun might yellow slightly due to oxidation of the fats and dyes. Similarly, the loss of essential oils (which then oxidise) leads to a brittle feel. This aging process is natural but can be slowed: using leather conditioners with antioxidants or UV protectants can protect the leather’s fibres and finish. An example is how unprotected leather in a convertible car will oxidise and fade much faster than one regularly treated with UV blocker and kept conditioned. Oxidation is essentially what happens when leather “ages,” contributing to patina in a good way, or cracking in a bad way if not cared for.

P

Patina: The sheen or character that leather develops over time through use, handling, and exposure to elements. Patina can manifest as a soft glow, deepened colour tones, or polished areas on the leather’s surface. It is especially appreciated in natural leathers like pull-up or pure aniline, where each scratch or oil rub leaves a mark that blends into a rich tapestry of wear. Unlike many materials, quality leather often looks better with age – think of a well-worn leather jacket or an antique Chesterfield sofa with that distinctive glow on the armrests.

Note: Patina is different from dirt or neglect; it’s an aesthetic enhancement that comes from clean, well-loved leather. Regular gentle use and occasional conditioning will help your leather develop a beautiful patina rather than just looking old.

Pigmented Leather: Leather that has been coated with an opaque pigment paint and a clear protective topcoat. This is the most common type of leather in cars and furniture. The pigment provides an even colour by covering the natural variations in the hide, and the topcoat adds durability and consistent sheen. Pigmented leather is easy to clean and very durable, since spills sit on the surface. However, the trade-off is that it doesn’t have the same soft handfeel or breathability as aniline leather (the finish can feel a bit plastic). Test: A drop of water will typically stay on the surface of pigmented leather (whereas it would soak into pure aniline).

Care: Clean with COLOURLOCK Mild or Strong Cleaner depending on soil level, and protect with Leather Shield. Minor cracks in the pigment can be fixed with Leather Fresh since it also contains pigment and binder.

Pull-Up Leather: A type of leather that is infused with oils or waxes, giving it a distinct look and feel. When you bend or pull the leather, the oils redistribute, causing the colour to lighten in the stretched area – this is the “pull-up” effect. It gives the leather a beautiful two-tone, rustic character, especially over time as it creases and patinas. Pull-up leather (also called waxed or oiled leather) is common in high-end leather sofas, jackets, and some boots. It scratches easily, but many scratches can be blended out by rubbing, because the oils move and self-heal the mark to an extent.

Care: Use COLOURLOCK Elephant preserver to replenish the oils/waxes. Avoid harsh cleaners which can strip the oils – if cleaning is needed, a slightly damp cloth or our specialised Aniline cleaner is best, followed by re-oiling. Over time, pull-up leather will develop a rich patina as the oils age and the colour depth evolves.

Pores: The tiny openings in the grain of leather (from hair follicles of the animal). In full-grain and aniline leathers, these pores remain visible and open, which is why these leathers are breathable and can absorb liquids (stains or conditioners). Pores affect dye absorption – for example, aniline dye enters through the pores and colours the leather. Pigmented and coated leathers often have their pores sealed by finish, making them less breathable. The appearance of pores also affects texture: calf leather has finer pores giving a smooth look, whereas buffalo leather has larger pores for a rugged look. In practical terms, if you see clear pores and natural grain, treat that leather carefully – it’s likely more absorbent. Clogged pores (with dirt or finishes) can be cleaned out by gentle scrubbing with a soft brush and cleaner to keep the leather “poring” (breathing) properly.

Primer: In leather refinishing, a primer is a preparatory coating that helps new colour adhere to the leather. It’s not always required, but when changing color drastically or dealing with an exposed leather (after sanding), a coat of COLOURLOCK Leather Primer ensures better bonding of the subsequent colour layers. Primer can also fill in micro-scratches, creating a smooth base. Professionals spray a thin primer after cleaning and sanding the leather; once it’s dried, they apply the pigment dye and then topcoat. Think of primer as laying the groundwork for a long-lasting recolour – it promotes adhesion and even coverage. (In DIY kits, sometimes the first few thin layers of Leather Fresh act similarly to a primer by penetrating and grabbing onto the surface.) Always let primer fully dry before moving to the next step in colouring.

PU Leather (Bicast Leather): “PU leather” refers to a split leather that has been coated with a layer of polyurethane and has an embossed artificial grain. Essentially, the underside (flesh split) of the hide is used as a backing and a plastic PU layer gives it a leather-like appearance. PU leather – also called bicast or bycast leather – is cheaper than full-grain leather and is often glossy with an antique two-tone look. However, it is not as durable; the strength comes mostly from the PU coating, which can crack or peel over time.

Care: PU leather requires special care because regular leather conditioners won’t penetrate the plastic coating. Use COLOURLOCK PU Protector, which is formulated for these surfaces. Keep PU leather away from direct heat and moisturise the room (dry air can accelerate cracking of the PU layer). Once the plastic layer cracks, repairs are difficult – often the piece may need reupholstering. So prevention with gentle cleaning and protection is key.

R

Recolouring: The process of restoring or changing the colour of leather using COLOURLOCK dyes and finishes. Recolouring can be as small as touching up a faded spot or as involved as changing a black sofa to red. The general steps include thorough cleaning, possible degreasing, light sanding of the surface, application of a primer (if needed), then the new colour (dye) in multiple thin layers, and finally a clear topcoat for sealing. COLOURLOCK Leather Fresh makes recolouring accessible for DIY projects – you can sponge on a matching shade to revive a worn area. For full colour changes or professional results, COLOURLOCK Leather Colour (spray application) plus Crosslinker and Top Coat are used, which essentially replicates the factory finishing process. Proper recolouring can breathe new life into old leather and is a cost-effective alternative to reupholstering. Just remember to always match the type of leather (aniline vs pigmented) with the appropriate recolouring method for best results.

Refinishing: A comprehensive restoration process where the leather’s original finish is repaired or replaced. This typically involves more advanced work: cleaning, sanding away damaged finish, doing any filling of cracks or scuffs, spraying on new colour, and sealing with a professional topcoat. The goal of refinishing is to return the leather to OEM factory condition in look and wear. It might also involve grain correction (using embossing stamps to re-imprint grain on filled areas) and multiple layers of colour and clear coat. Professionals will often refinish high-end car seats or aniline sofas that have been badly worn – essentially giving them a new surface. It’s a time-consuming process, but results in a dramatic transformation. DIY users can handle small-scale refinishing (like a leather armrest) with a COLOURLOCK DIY Kit, but large projects like full couch recolours often benefit from professional service to ensure even application and durability.

Restoration Kit: A bundled set of COLOURLOCK products assembled to tackle a complete leather restoration project. A typical Leather Restoration Kit might include cleaners (to prep the leather), a degreaser (for oily spots), filler (for cracks/holes), a matched Leather Fresh dye, Leather Glue (for any tears), and protectors to finish off. These kits come with step-by-step instructions so even non-professionals can follow the sequence. For example, the Complete Leather Repair Kit could allow a car owner to fix bolster wear: clean the seat, glue any small cuts, fill cracks, recolour the area, and then protect it. The convenience of a kit is that you have all necessary components on hand and they are designed to work together. COLOURLOCK’s kits are based on the same products used by professionals, just repackaged for home use. They’re a great way to save a leather item that otherwise might be headed for the junkyard or landfill.

S

Semi-Aniline Leather: Leather that has been partially aniline dyed but also has a thin protective topcoat with a small amount of pigment. This hybrid approach gives a semi-aniline leather the soft feel and variation of aniline leather, while adding a bit more protection and colour consistency. Semi-aniline leathers often have a light surface pigmentation that evens out the colour but is not opaque, so you still see some natural character. They are a balance between comfort and durability – for instance, many “luxury” car interiors are semi-aniline: they feel more natural than standard pigmented leather but are easier to maintain than pure aniline.

Care: Clean gently (since they can absorb liquids) and use Leather Shield to protect, as semi-anilines can still stain from spills if not promptly removed. They will also develop patina, though not as pronounced as pure aniline.

Stain Remover: Any product designed to remove specific stains from leather without harming the finish. COLOURLOCK makes different Stain Removers tailored to the type of leather and stain: e.g., an Ink Remover for ink marks on pigmented leather, a Grease Absorber for oil stains on porous leather, or a Water Spot Remover for water sports on aniline leather. Using the right stain remover is crucial – a harsh general cleaner might damage leather. Always identify the leather type first: you generally cannot “remove” stains from aniline/nubuck without potentially leaving a mark; instead you might need to use a gentle cleaner or accept some patina. For pigmented leather, many surface stains (like food, ink, denim) can be lifted if treated quickly.

Tip: After using a stain remover and letting the area dry, re-protect that spot with Leather Shield or condition it, because some removers can strip the protection or oils from that area.

Suede: A type of leather with a napped finish, made from the underside of the hide (the flesh split). Suede is soft and fuzzy to the touch, with an open pore structure. It’s commonly used in fashion (shoes, jackets) and sometimes for furniture accents. Suede is very susceptible to staining and can be damaged by water because it has no protective coating.

Care: Use COLOURLOCK Aniline & Nubuck Cleaner (which comes in a foam or spray form) to clean surface dirt – often alongside a suede brush or sponge that helps loosen soil. Never soak suede in water. After cleaning and drying, apply Suede Protector spray to help repel moisture and dirt. Also, brushing the suede with a brass or crepe suede brush will keep the nap lifted and evenly textured. If suede gets matted or shiny from wear, a suede eraser or light sanding can help restore the nap. Remember, vigorous cleaning can lighten the colour, so treat stains carefully – sometimes it’s better to accept a slight mark than to over-clean and create a bald spot.

Scuff: A superficial rub or scratch on the leather’s surface that results in a lighter patch or loss of finish, but not a full-thickness cut. Scuffs are common on shoes (the toe area) or car seat edges. Since they only affect the top layer or colour, they are relatively easy to fix.

Fix: For pigmented leather, scuffs can be blended away by applying COLOURLOCK Leather Fresh dye of the matching colour – it will cover the abraded area and blend it with the surrounding leather. If the scuff is rough, first smooth it gently with a Leather Sanding Pad. On aniline leather, minor scuffs may just become part of the patina; or you could touch them up with a bit of coloured Aniline Cream. Protecting high-contact points with Leather Shield can prevent many scuffs by reducing friction. Also, be mindful of jean rivets, belts, or pet claws which often are culprits in scuffing leather.

Split Leather: The underside layer of a hide that’s split away from the top grain. When a thick hide is processed, it’s often split into layers: the top grain (with the natural grain surface) and the remaining flesh split underneath. This lower split leather has no grain and is typically rough on both sides (like suede). It’s less strong than the grain layer. Split leather is used to make suede, or it can be coated with pigment or polyurethane to create imitation grain leather (like PU leather/bicast). Because splits don’t have a tight fibre structure on top, they can’t be used as-is for high-stress applications without a heavy finish.

Care: Treat split leather (suede) gently, as it can easily fuzz up or tear if handled roughly. If you have bicast (split with PU coating), care for it as described under PU Leather. Knowing whether your item is a split can explain its durability – e.g. “genuine leather” belts are often just split leather with a surface finish, which is why they crack more quickly than full-grain belts.

T

Tanning: The chemical process that converts raw animal hides into stable leather. In tanning, natural collagen fibres are treated so they won’t decompose and instead become flexible and durable. There are several tanning methods: chrome tanning (using chromium salts) is most common, vegetable tanning (using plant tannins like tree bark) is traditional, and there are also aldehyde (white tanning) or synthetic tannages. The tanning process also determines some of the leather’s colour and character: for instance, vegetable-tanned leather often has an earthy tan/brown hue and is firmer (good for belts, saddlery), while chrome-tanned leather is pale blue in crust form and very soft (good for upholstery, garments). After tanning, the leather is usually dyed and finished, but the tanning step is the foundation that gives leather its long-lasting properties.

Fun fact: before modern tanning, people used things like smoke or fats to preserve hides, but those early methods resulted in leathers that weren’t as stable or were very smelly.

Topcoat: The final clear coat applied to the surface of leather to seal in colour and provide the desired shine and protection. In pigmented leathers, after the colour coat is sprayed, a topcoat (also called a clear coat or finish) is applied – it can be matte, satin, or gloss. This topcoat is what you feel when you touch a finished leather. It often contains properties for UV resistance, and it protects the colour from wear and minor scratches. COLOURLOCK Top Coats come in different gloss levels to match your leather’s appearance. When you use Leather Fresh, the product already includes a topcoat in its formula, but for professional spray jobs, you’ll finish with a dedicated topcoat (optionally enhanced with Crosslinker for strength). If a leather’s topcoat wears off (leather feels rough or colour rubs onto a cloth when cleaning), it’s time to refinish and reseal it. Keeping the topcoat intact is key to leather longevity – that’s why using Shields and gentle cleaners matter, so you don’t prematurely wear it away.

Tear Repair: The process of fixing rips, holes, or cuts in leather. Minor tears can be repaired with COLOURLOCK Leather Glue and possibly a backing fabric: you’d glue the torn edges down onto a thin canvas patch placed underneath the tear to hold it together. Once the structure is restored, Fluid Leather or Leather Filler is used to fill any gaps or rebuild missing grain, and then the area is recoloured to blend in. For larger holes or complex tears, a professional might perform a subpatch and even re-grain the area. A Tear Repair Kit typically includes glue, backing material with additional options for filler and dye.

Important: Always align torn edges as neatly as possible before gluing, and use minimal glue to avoid a stiff spot. After a tear repair, that spot will never be as strong as new, but a well-done repair can be nearly invisible and extend the item’s usable life. Avoid stretching the repaired area and continue to condition it – flexible leather is less likely to tear again.

Top-Grain Leather: A term often confused with full-grain, top-grain leather refers to any leather taken from the grain side (top layer) of the hide, but it usually implies the surface has been corrected or sanded. In practice, when a leather is called “top-grain,” it means it’s high-quality leather from the upper layer, but perhaps the very top has been buffed to remove imperfections and then a finish applied. It is slightly lower grade than full-grain (which retains the whole natural grain), but still much stronger and more durable than split leather. Top-grain leather is commonly used for fine upholstery and car seats where they want a consistent look – the natural grain might be altered a bit for uniformity. It still has a dense fibre structure and is resistant to tearing. Think of top-grain as the category that includes full-grain and corrected-grain. If you buy a “top-grain leather sofa,” you’re getting the real hide’s strong top layer, though its surface might be embossed for even texture.

Care: Same as full-grain – keep it clean and conditioned. It will last many years, though the finish might wear before the leather itself does.

Two-Tone Finish (Antique Finish): A leather finishing effect where two colours are used to create depth or a vintage look. Typically, a lighter base colour is applied first, then a darker, contrasting colour on top, which is partially wiped off or allowed to show variation so that the base colour peeks through. This gives an antique patina appearance – often seen on Chesterfield sofas or “antique” style leather chairs, which have darker creases and lighter raised areas. The two-tone (also called rub-off) finish mimics the way leather naturally darkens in some spots and fades in others over time.

Care: Gently clean two-tone leather; aggressive cleaning can remove the intentional secondary colour. If you re-dye a two-tone leather, you’ll lose that effect (it’ll become one solid colour), so it’s a delicate balance to touch up damages. COLOURLOCK Antique Finish products or techniques can re-create two-tone effects if needed (this is advanced work). For maintenance, use Leather Shield to protect the surface so the coloured layers aren’t easily worn off by use.

U

UV Damage: The fading, drying, or degradation of leather caused by prolonged exposure to ultraviolet light (sunlight or even strong artificial UV). UV rays can break down the leather’s finish and also cause the colour to bleach out – for example, a red leather motorbike jacket turning orange-pink, or the top of a brown sofa becoming lighter than the bottom. UV also deteriorates the leather’s fibres and natural oils, leading to dryness or cracks.

Prevention: Keep leather items out of direct sun when possible. Use COLOURLOCK Leather Shield or Elephant Leather Preserver which contain UV filters to slow down fading. In cars, a sunshade on the windshield and parking in shade helps protect the dashboard and seats. Once leather is significantly faded, you’d have to re-dye it to restore the colour. Minor fading can sometimes be improved with a colour-refreshing conditioner if it’s aniline (because it soaks in), but generally UV damage is permanent and cumulative – best to defend against it early.

V

Vegetable-Tanned Leather: Leather that is tanned using natural plant-based tannins, such as those from bark, leaves, or fruits. This traditional method (dating back thousands of years) results in leather that often has a tan or brown hue and a distinctive earthy smell. Vegetable-tanned leather is firmer and can be thicker – used for belts, saddles, straps, and high-end briefcases. It has the advantage of aging beautifully: veg-tan leather starts pale and darkens to a rich honey patina with exposure to sunlight and handling. It’s also considered eco-friendlier since it avoids chromium salts. However, it can be less water-resistant and initially stiffer than chrome-tanned leather.

Care: Because veg-tan leather is often left with a more natural finish (or just oiled/waxed), you should avoid soaking it. Use neutral pH cleaners and conditioners like COLOURLOCK Cleaners & Protectors and test any product on a small area – some conditioners darken veg leather (which many people actually like as it speeds patina). Veg-tan leather can also be carved or stamped (as in leathercraft) because of its firmer structure.

Vinyl (Faux Leather/Leatherette): A fully synthetic material used in place of real leather, made from plastic components like PVC or polyurethane on a fabric backing. Vinyl upholstery is common in car interiors (older cars, or specific areas like sides of seats), and in some furniture. It is non-porous – meaning it does not breathe – and can be more durable against spills since it’s waterproof. Modern faux leather can be quite convincing in look and feel, but typically it will be colder to the touch and won’t develop patina. It’s also sometimes called “pleather” or “leatherette”.

Care: Clean vinyl or faux leather with COLOURLOCK Artificial Leather/Vinyl Cleaner – which removes dirt without drying the plastic – and then use Artificial Leather Protector. Do not use leather conditioners on vinyl; they won’t absorb and can make the surface sticky. One big advantage of vinyl is ease of maintenance and lower cost, but it can crack over time (the plasticiser chemicals evaporate). Keeping it protected with a dedicated vinyl protectant can slow down cracking. Visually, when vinyl cracks, you often see a fabric mesh underneath – that’s a telltale sign it’s faux leather.

W

Water-Based Dye: A dye or finish formulation that uses water as the carrier, rather than solvent. COLOURLOCK’s Leather Fresh and Leather Colour are water-based systems, which are much more user and eco-friendly than older solvent-based dyes. Water-based dye has low odour, is non-flammable, and easier to clean up. It also doesn’t penetrate as aggressively as solvent dyes, which gives more control in application (multiple light coats can be applied to build up colour). The trade-off is that you must let it dry between coats or use heat to speed it up. Once fully cured with a topcoat, water-based finishes are just as durable as solvent ones for everyday use. An added benefit: because they don’t contain harsh solvents, water-based leather dyes won’t make the leather stiffer or cause as much existing finish to lift during application. Always shake water-based products well, as pigments can settle. For best results, apply them with spray in thin layers or a sponge  – the water will evaporate, leaving the colour evenly distributed.

Wear & Tear: A general term for the signs of use that appear on leather over time. This includes fading in colour, small scratches or scuffs, slight cracks in high-flex areas, shiny patches from friction, and loss of firmness in cushions or upholstery. Regular wear and tear is normal – for example, a leather wallet will show wear at the corners and where it folds, and a driver’s seat will have creases and soften where weight is frequently applied. While you can’t entirely prevent wear and tear, you can manage it: routine cleaning keeps dirt from abrading the leather, conditioning keeps it supple so it doesn’t crack, and using protectants on high traffic areas slows down the wear. When leather starts looking shabby, many of these issues can be corrected – a bit of Leather Fresh can restore faded colour or cover scuffs, and a filler can fix a cracked edge. But it’s easier to maintain than to fix; addressing small wear early (like re-dyeing a scuffed spot) will keep the wear from getting worse or requiring major restoration.

Z

Zipper Damage: Abrasion or scratches on leather caused by contact with zippers or metal hardware. This often occurs on car leather seats or jackets – for example, the back of a shoe’s zipper scratching a car seat as someone gets in, or a jacket’s metal zipper teeth rubbing against a leather car interior. Over time, zipper damage can create unsightly scuffs or even tears in leather.

Prevention: Use COLOURLOCK Leather Shield on areas likely to get contact (seat side bolsters, jacket underarms) to add a protective layer against friction. Also be mindful – when you carry a leather handbag with a metal zipper, ensure the zipper isn’t constantly rubbing an area. If damage occurs, treat it like a scuff: you may need to lightly sand any roughness and apply Leather Fresh to recolour the abraded line. For jackets, if the zipper is causing wear on the leather behind it, consider attaching a fabric tape over the edge of the zipper or keeping the zipper slightly covered when layering clothes. It’s a small issue that can be annoying, but with some care in use and proper protection, you can avoid most zipper-induced mishaps.

Learn More: For detailed how-to guides, tutorials, and step-by-step instructions on specific leather problems, visit our Leather Care Hub. You can also explore our DIY Kits and Professional Systems for automotive, furniture, and fashion leather restoration.

COLOURLOCK Australia is trusted worldwide for factory-accurate leather care and restoration – we hope this Leather Dictionary helped clarify the terms and techniques to keep your leather looking its best!